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Même réponse... Si on s'en tient à SV : Johnnie Walker 'Double Black' (40%, OB, +/-2012) Four stars This version is said to be peatier and to bear more 'modernity' (my words, err), that is to say a higher proportion of heavily charred oak. No age statement. Colour: full gold. Nose: we're approaching malty territories here. It's rather less expressive than the Black, a notch more austere but also unexpectedly mineral, waxy and grassy - I could swear I get Clynelish. I also get some menthol and touches of humus. What's sure is that there's no extravagant vanilla-banananess (wot?), which is pretty good news. But then again, the palate will tell us more… Mouth: yes, yes and yes, this is for malt drinkers. Charred oak may have brought more fullness without, again, having made it syrupy, quite the opposite. It's also very smoky/peaty, nervous, with touches of coal and leather as well as a little mint and liquorice. Antiseptic (hints). Frankly, I like this quite a lot. Finish: surprisingly long, salty, smoky… A feeling of brine in the aftertaste. Comments: it's a surprise, I'd bet there's quite a lot of peated malt in there. A very intelligent version, I dare say - yes marketing can match taste. SGP:244 - 86 points. Johnnie Walker ‘The Spice Road’ (40%, OB, Explorers’ Club Collection, blend, travel retail, 2012) Three stars More stories to go with our whiskies, this time it’s about the ‘spices that the Johnnie Walker agents would have discovered in the thriving markets around Asia’. I say why not? I tend to like those better than the infamous ‘forgotten casks’. Having said that we’ll soon not be able to read a good book with our whiskies anymore, we’ll be too busy reading packagings and brand websites ;-). Colour: dark orangy gold. Nose: it’s pretty malty and quite roasted/toasted. I also get quite a lot of earl grey tea, caramel, praline and orangettes (strips of orange covered with chocolate) as well as a little wood smoke. Nice but the real challenge for ‘not-too-expensive’ blends such as this new baby usually lies on the palate… Mouth: well, the name was carefully chosen – or rather the casks – as indeed this is quite spicy, starting with quite some peat smoke and pepper and going on with oak spices, probably from rather active American oak. So as usual, cinnamon, nutmeg and ginger and a slightly hotter background (wee touches of chillies). It’s rather unusual, less ‘thick’ than other new offerings by Johnnie Walker and rather more nervous. Finish: even more spices from the oak, it’s quite long and there’s even a feeling of Tabasco. Cinnamony aftertaste plus a little salt. Comments: the problem is that it’s hard not to find all these spices once you know the whisky is named ‘spice road’. Ah, to better control our minds … Anyway, a very respectable effort and a ‘modern’ blend that uses some of the codes of malt whisky. I’d bet we’ll see more and more of them… SGP:343 - 81 points. Johnnie Walker ‘The Royal Route’ (40%, OB, Explorers’ Club Collection, blend, travel retail, 2013) Three stars Another new Johnnie Walker that comes with a story as long as an arm. Don't you need more story when you've got no age? It's the third and the last within the 'Explorer's Club' collection. I quite liked The Gold Route (WF 79) and liked The Spice Road even better (WF 81). Colour: gold. Nose: it's quite potent and malty despite the low strength, there's especially a kind of fat fruitiness that works well (around candied peaches and melons, perhaps), as well as some peat smoke and beeswax. The feeling of hot wax mingled with fermenting hay is also welcome. Mouth: same flavours as in the nose, with some depth, some smoke, some candied fruits, some wax... and sadly, not much middle. B****y 40% vol. Finish: saltier and even a little longer than expected. Takes off again, which sometimes happen. A bitterness in the aftertaste. Comments: very high quality blend, perfectly composed. I remember a 'Director's Blend' by Johnnie Walker that had a similar profile. The only problem is the weakness on the palate, which is entirely related to the strength. Sweet whiskies can stand low strengths but in my modest experience, 'phenolic' ones need 43% or more or they can be a little, say frustrating. SGP:452 - 82 points. Johnnie Walker 'Gold Label Reserve' (40%, OB, +/-2012) Three stars and a half It's new, it's brand new, the older Gold (18 yo) having disappeared from the shelves or so it seems. Mind you, I think I never had a go at that one… Colour: full gold. Nose: you know what? I like Double Black better at this point, maybe it's not any more complex but it's kind of straighter and cleaner. Right, and more mineral. The Gold has probably more sherry but that comes with more sourness (overripe apples) and more mead/ale. I don't know, I like it less… Mouth: it's better on the palate, more nervous, more, well, mineral, with good spices from the oak, pepper, touches of curry, then more raisins and other dried fruits. More smoke as well. Finish: medium, drier, smokier, with more tea and some pepper that plays with the edges of your tongue. Peppery and gingery aftertaste, with also a saltiness. Comments: it's another blend that seems to bear more peat and pepper. It's less full than the Double Black in my opinion but the peatiness on the palate works very well. SGP:353 - 84 points. Johnnie Walker 18 yo 'Platinum Label' (40%, OB, +/-2012) Three stars and a half A different composition, said to be richer than the Gold. Some more or less official websites claim that it's (I quote) "targeted toward the increasingly sophisticated and progressive whisky consumer". Isn't that us, my friend? Colour: full gold. Nose: it is richer, fruitier, more demonstrative, with more pineapples, tinned pears and even marshmallows. To give you an idea, the Gold was more Highlands, this is more Speyside. Goes on with more dried fruits, sultanas, dried bananas, and then floral notes, roses, peonies… And a little leather and tobacco. It's quite complex in fact, fragrant… Mouth: well, there is some peat, there is some smoke and there are herbs, including bitter ones (light Jaeger). It's much less rounded and smooooth than what the nose suggested, and it's quite spicy too (pepper, ginger). Finish: medium, more towards earth and liquorice wood. Peppery aftertaste (very peppery). Comments: palate and nose are quite different. I'm having trouble deciding on which I like best, between the Gold and the Platinum. Let's go for the same score then! What's sure is that the Platinum is spicier. SGP:463 - 84 points. Johnnie Walker 'The Director's Blend 2011' (46%, OB, off-commerce) Three stars Each year bears a different style, whether smoky, spirit-driven, oak-driven, Lowland… 2011 was the year of the 'oak-driven' style, let's try it… Colour: gold. Nose: oak-driven indeed. Plasticine, vanilla, pencil shavings and touches of ginger, and then more of all that. Oops, forgot to mention coconut… Mouth: same, oak, vanilla, ginger, cinnamon (bags!), bitter oranges, touches of curry, more oak, cigarette tobacco, more ginger… Well, it's exactly what it says, oak-driven. Finish: same, for a long time. Comments: in truth, it's a kind of experiment, and it's very different from all the previous Director's Blends that I could try as well. Indeed this baby was poured by Master Blender -a true one- Jim Beveridge during the MM's 15th Anniversary celebrations, amongst other 'vintages'. Yes I smuggled a sample, but only one, I (try to) behave! Anyway, I think the previous ones were much better but it's all a matter of taste, of course. What's sure is that this one was very 'un-Diageo', so to speak, as the company's bottlings seem to be rather distillate-driven in general. Next time, I'll rather try to smuggle a sample of 'smoky Highlands' style, it's lovely! SGP:551 - 80 points (but please note that other MMs scored this baby much higher). Johnnie Walker Blue Label 'Baccarat' (60.5%, OB, blend, 200th anniversary, 2005) Five stars I believe there's been different versions of this baby, some recently bottled at 40% or 57% under various names but in the very same decanter, while the original one that we'll have today was bottled at even higher ‘cask’ strength, that is to say 60.5% vol. (for the bicentenary, in 2005). It's said to contain the oldest and rarest malt whiskies but one cannot not wonder how the strength could be so high if the whiskies inside were so old... Colour: full gold. Nose: it’s absolutely incredible that this baby is actually quite close to the old Dundonian, as it starts on almost as much peat smoke and a very comparable oomph. Frankly, they’re very similar whiskies, although this JW has a little more fruits such as blackberries and hints of oranges. Maybe a little more bacon as well. Me likes this! With water: more differences with water. The smokiness is almost as big as in the Dundonian but there are even more fruits. Very nice shoe polish/soot combo in the background. Mouth (neat): … and once again, we’re in an old style, rich and dry at the same time, very smoky and sappy and not too hot. Wonderful development on many tart fruits that keep the whole ‘flying’, lemon, tangerine, grapefruits… Even touches of strawberries. Well, this baby had to be good, I guess, and it is, no doubt. With water: more earth, leather, mushrooms and tobacco. A little green tea as well. Finish: very long, more and more on bitter oranges but it seems that the peat still had a lot to say in the aftertaste. Comments: right, it’s the kind of bottling that us malt aficionados love to hate. First, because of its ‘bling’ side (but no worries, many malt brands seem to be catching up ;-)) and second, because of all the great old malts that were probably sacrificed. Well, it’s still my opinion but I won’t deny that the end result was of the highest orders in this case. A very great, very old style whisky, and I cannot see why I’d give it a different score. Well worth 92! Ha, blends! SGP:455 - 92 points. Johnnie Walker Blue Label 'The Casks Edition' (55.8%, OB, 2012) Four stars Casks Edition, funny name, that. Do they mean Cask Strength? Colour: full gold. Nose: it’s more discrete, shier than the White Horse, and more ‘modern’ as well, with more oak and toffee/toasted bread, but it’s no simple whisky, not at all. What’s sort of similar is the slight meatiness, the tobacco and the bitter oranges as well as the whiffs of wet moss. There’s certainly some smoke and soot too, some chocolate, a little putty, pine sap, damp earth… In fact it’s quite complex, it’s just that the White Horse was immensely complex. With water: becomes rounder, smoother, easier, more towards dried fruits and honey/maple syrup, but the sappiness and the smoke remain there in the background. Mouth (neat): ha-ha! Big stuff, rich, citrusy, candied and quite peaty/peppery, like if there was quite some Talisker roaring in the background. It’s not a silky/smooth kind of blend at all and there isn’t any feeling of ‘gruel’, you know, these blends that just taste indistinct, that is to say just ‘whisky’. With water: classic oranges + honey + butterscotch + a touch of peat. Touches of sweet sherry as well. Finish: long, on dried fruits and peat smoke, with a little more liquorice and even aniseed in the aftertaste. Comments: it doesn’t taste very old but it’s got more oomph than most modern blends – and that’s not just the high ABV. So maybe not as stunning – and peaty - as the Blue Label 'Baccarat' that was bottled at 60.5% a few years ago (WF 92), but quality’s very high, no doubt at all. SGP:352 - 87 points. Sinon, le Johnnie de base, peu de chances. SV : http://www.whiskyfun.com/ Sébastien.
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