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Chilled cucumber soup Oi Naeng-guk (the korean table)
our korean kitchen
Chilled Cucumber Soup oh-ee neng-guk
This soup is absolutely our favorite thing to eat on a hot summer’s day – it’s cool and refreshing, and so full of flavor we could eat it all day long. It is also a perfect example of the subtleties and contrasts of Korean food and cooking. Although the cuisine is often described as predominantly spicy, in fact dishes like this one or the Baby Chicken Soup (see recipe), Buckwheat Noodles in Chilled Broth (see recipe), Mung Bean Pancakes (see recipe), and many others provide beautiful depth of flavor without any spice at all.
¼ oz wakame dried kelp (see recipe)
4 oz cucumber, halved and thinly sliced
2½ Tbsp rice wine vinegar
4 tsp honey or agave syrup
1 garlic clove, crushed
½ small onion, very finely sliced
1 green onion, very finely sliced
½ tsp fine sea salt
1 red chili, seeded and finely sliced (optional)
1 tsp toasted sesame seeds, to serve
ice cubes, to serve
In a bowl, soak the kelp in cold water for 15 minutes.
Drain the kelp and cut it into bite-size strips. Place it in a medium mixing bowl with all of the remaining ingredients (apart from the sesame seeds and ice). Cover with 2½ cups cold water. Gently combine, then cover and refrigerate until very well chilled.
Serve in bowls with a few ice cubes and the sesame seeds scattered over the top.
Chilled Tofu, Cucumber & Kimchi Broth muk saba
Traditionally, acorn jelly is used in this Korean dish. It can be found freshly made in some good Korean stores, but we also make this with tofu and find it to be just as delicious. One of our favorite places to eat this dish is in a lovely little restaurant in Seoul called Chang Sarang, which is well worth a visit if you ever find yourself in Korea.
Sauce
1½ Tbsp soy sauce
1½ Tbsp honey
2½ tsp roasted sesame seed oil
4 tsp rice wine vinegar
½ tsp wasabi paste
1 green onion, very finely sliced
1 garlic clove, crushed
Stock
6 large dried anchovies (see recipe)
2 × 3-inch pieces dried kelp (dashima, see recipe)
¼ onion, roughly chopped
½ red chili, halved and seeded
14 oz firm tofu (or acorn jelly), drained and cut into ½ × 2–inch strips
¾ cup kimchi, homemade (see recipe) or store-bought, cut into bite-size strips
4 oz cucumber, halved lengthwise and cut on the diagonal into thin slices
4 sheets crispy roasted seaweed (see recipe), cut into thin strips
2 tsp toasted sesame seeds
In a small bowl, combine all the sauce ingredients and set aside.
For the stock, pull the heads off the dried anchovies, then gently tease open the underside of the belly and remove the guts (little black pouches). Put the anchovies and all the other stock ingredients into a pan, cover with 3¼ cups water, and bring to a boil. Remove the lid, reduce the heat, and simmer for 5 minutes, until the stock has reduced by about a quarter. Strain the stock through a fine sieve into a bowl, and leave to cool completely. Cover and refrigerate until well chilled.
Divide the chilled broth and tofu strips among 4 bowls, with the kimchi and cucumber piled on top in mounds. Place the seaweed on top, scatter over the sesame seeds, and drizzle over all the sauce among the 4 bowls. Serve immediately, mixing everything together until well combined.
The Food of Korea Injoo Chun & Jaewoon Lee & Youngran Baek
Chilled Summer Noodles with Beef and Vegetables Mulnaemgmyeon
While a dish of chilled beef broth noodles with slivers of nashi pear and cucumbers may seem unusual, it is really very light and refreshing—a brief respite from the intense heat of the Korean summer.
7 oz (200 g) dried wheat or buckwheat (soba) noodles
6 cups (14/2 liters) beef stock (page 42)
8 oz (250 g) brisket or chuck beef
1 in (2½ cm) ginger, sliced
1 medium onion, sliced
2-3 cloves garlic, crushed
8 in (20 cm) square dried kelp (konbu), washed
1¼ teaspoons salt
½ large nashi pear (about 15/4 cups/300 g), peeled and sliced into thin strips
2 hard-boiled eggs, halved lengthwise
Japanese mustard, to serve
Rice vinegar, to serve
Seasoned Vegetables
3 small Japanese cucumbers, sliced into thin, long strips
4 oz (125 g) daikon radish (about 2 in/5 cm), sliced into thin, long strips
2 pinches of salt
Pinch of minced garlic
Pinch of ground red pepper (optional)
Pinch of sesame seeds (optional)
1 Prepare the vegetables by seasoning the cucumbers with a pinch of salt. Set aside. Season the daikon with a pinch of salt, garlic, ground pepper and sesame seeds, and set aside.
2 Bring a pot of water to a boil, reduce the heat, drop in the noodles and simmer for 1 minute. Drain, then refresh the noodles immediately in a container of ice water.
3 Place the beef stock, brisket, ginger, onion and garlic in a pot and bring to a boil. Cover, then reduce the heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Add the dried kelp and continue to simmer for 1 hour, or until the beef is tender.
4 Discard the kelp, add the salt and remove from the heat. Leave the beef in the soup until cooled, then remove and slice it thin. Set the beef aside. Strain the soup and place both the soup and the beef in the refrigerator to chill. When the soup is cold, skim off the layer of fat on the surface.
5 Portion the noodles into 4 large bowls and garnish with the sliced beef, nashi pear and eggs. Top each bowl with the seasoned cucumbers and daikon, then pour the chilled soup over the noodles. Serve with Japanese mustard, vinegar and soy, accompanied with side dishes of Simple Daikon Salad (page 84) or Daikon Radish Kimchi (page 28) and Classic Chinese Cabbage Kimchi (page 27) if desired.